Backpacking at North Manitou Island: Trip Guide
NORTH MANITOU ISLAND BACKPACKING
Have you ever wanted to camp a top a 50 foot bluff on a secluded island, then head to North Manitou Island. This uninhabited island is accessed via ferry and is part of the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. Boasting stunning Lake Michigan sunsets with a backdrop of Caribbean blue water this location is one of the best places to hike and backpack in Michigan. With over 23 miles of trails to explore and located only 40 minutes from Traverse City, it’s the perfect spot for your next adventure.
This island will always hold a special place for me. It is where I first dipped my toes into the world of backpacking as a naïve high schooler with my youth group. So began my love for the challenge of hefting a 25lb pack on my back, while consuming gorp, and creating lifelong memories that backpacking and camping can provide.
Continuing my passion, I returned to the island 12 years later with my husband and friends, as a more knowledgeable and seasoned hiker. Here are my best tips for visiting the island and a detailed guide if you’re planning a three day backpacking trip to North Manitou Island.
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SOUTH vs North MANITOU
South is better for day trip hikes, while North is ideal for people who want a rugged, primitive experience.
MAP OF NORTH MANITOU ISLAND
Check out this Online map. This map from Wanderlog will give you a good layout of the area.
BRIEF HISTORY OF NORTH MANITOU
Ferry to the Island
The island at one point had a small village of people. Now, besides the park rangers, no one has lived on the island since the 1800’s. Inhabitants of the island once farmed and logged the land until the shipping industry decreased and people eventually had to abandoned their homes and businesses. In 1970 the National Park Service bought the remaining private property on the islands. Check out this hilarious and entertaining guide for additional history, as well as, details about the last remaining resident that lived on the island. Today the National Park Service and rangers monitor and care for the Island.
Most Michiganders are familiar with the legend of Sleeping Bear Dunes. A tale is told of a mother bear and her cubs sad attempt to escape a forest fire by swimming across the Great Lakes. The full story is told in a hardcover picture book called The Legend of Sleeping Bear Dunes.
COST OF CAMPING AT NORTH MANITOU ISLAND
I always appreciate knowing all the costs upfront when planning a trip. So here is a break down of the fees you can expect. Payment can occur at check-in at the Manitou Island Transit ticket office prior to boarding the boat.
Camping fees 2023
*$10.00 per night per back-country permit (4 adults per permit) or
*$20.00 a night for groups of 5-10.
National Park Pass:$25.00 each for a weeklong pass, every group needs a pass
Ferry Fee: $45/ adult, $23.00/child
Parking Fee: $3/Day or $25/Week
GETTING TO MANITOU ISLAND FERRY
Located near Traverse City, it’s about a 40 minute drive. The only way to the island is by private boat or ferry. We took the Manitou Island Transit Ferry service, which can be accessed at Fishtown Dock in Leland, MI.
The fee is $45.00 adults/ $23.00 children. Making reservations ahead of time is recommended. Also check all the departure/ pickup times prior to leaving incase of cancelations or inclement weather. Plan to arrive at least 20-30 minutes earlier than your check in time, since the ferry only runs certain times of day and can fill up. You need to allot additional time to park, walk to the ferry, and pay permits. Check in is 45 minutes earlier than your departure time. If you miss the ferry or there is inclement weather you will be forced to wait until the next day. The ferry begins making runs Memorial Day weekend through Labor Day weekend. The ride is about 1.5 hours long.
TIP Plan an additional day of food in the event that you’re forced to stay an extra day on the island. Notably, Manitou Island Passage is known for it’s many shipwrecks. The 12 mile ferry ride can be rough and choppy. If you’re prone to motion sickness, I highly recommend taking Dramamine. I still remember two individuals in our group losing their lunches over the side of the ferry! Not a great way to start your trip. If you begin to feel queasy on the ride, move to front of the boat and don’t attempt the upper deck. Also backpacks are stored below the boat and cannot be accessed until you reach the destination, so grab everything you need during the boat ride like your phone, sunglasses, and Dramamine.
Parking
The available parking lot is $3.00/daily or $25.00/week. Since there is no shuttle, I recommend to first drive to the ticket office and unload gear and obtain your parking permit if you’re with a group. Then drive the 5 minutes to the parking lot and walk back.
What to Expect When Arriving On North Manitou Island
Dock at North Manitou Island and the “village”
When you first dock on the island you will notice the “village”. These buildings, known as cottage row, are the first things that you glimpse when you arrive on North Manitou Island and alludes to the history of the past inhabitants. Entering these historical buildings is not allowed, but you can check out the exterior and peek through the windows. A short orientation by the park rangers is required to collect permits, review the park rules and record travel routes.
FAQ’s /RULES/ REGULATIONS
Rangers will ticket and enforce rules
A camping permit is required per individual site for a $10 fee
Camp 300 feet from the water
No campfires, besides 2 designated ones at the campsites near the dock
No dogs allowed on the island
Cell service is unreliable and spotty so plan accordingly with maps
Adhere to the Leave No Trace Policy
WHERE TO CAMP ON NORTH MANITOU ISLAND
Being on an island lends itself to some unique campsites since you can camp along Lake Michigan’s shoreline. (Just remember to set up camp at least 300 feet from the water.) Our favorite camping spot was on the Northwest side of the island on top of a sandy bluff. It allowed the opportunity to view the spectacular sunrise and sunsets! Definitely a highlight of the trip. Although fair warning, getting water climbing down the dune was a bit challenging.
Other great spots include camping by the orchard where you can see old mature apple trees.
North of Swenson’s Barn is also an ideal area for setting up camp, which provides nearby beach access.
The Village Campground is the only location that has a designated camping area with 2 pit toilets and water spigots. There are eight designated campsites and two fire rings. The limit is two tents and four people per site. The sites are a first come, first serve basis. I recommend camping in the village on your last day so that you’re close to the dock for the 11:00am departure. If you miss the boat you’ll get stuck on the island an extra unplanned day.
Trails on North Manitou Island
HIKING TRAILS
Manitou Lake
The main trails are well maintained by the rangers. Trails are mostly flat, considered easy-moderate, minus the dunes. There are 25-30 miles of trails to explore on the 22 square mile island. You are allowed to bushwhack your own trails on the island and explore until your heart’s content.
Manitou Lake: Hiking to the inland lake is a great destination. Do not swim in Manitou Lake unless you want to risk swimmer’s itch. Although you can can fish and explore the area.
Other unique places include exploring around Swenson’s Barn, an old horse barn, located by Crescent Dock on the West side of the island. Plus there are lots of places to rock hunt and enjoy the amazing sunsets! The South side of Manitou Island has some of the best beaches, Fredrickson Place, Johnston Place and the Cemetery.
MAP/ ROUTE
We took the inner loop West to Old Grande and camped on the Northwest side on a high bluff, which afforded us an amazing sunset!! We spent some time bushwhacking off trail and also visited the Manitou Lake, explored the old buildings and Swenson’s barn, and camped the last day by the village and explored around cottage row.
WHAT TO EXPECT TO SEE ON THE ISLAND
The last inhabitants left back in the 1800’s, but you can still find traces of settlements. A school, old cars, a cemetery, an old barn and buildings can be spotted throughout the islands which is quite intriguing and gives you a glimpse into the past.
WHAT ANIMALS LIVE ON NORTH MANITOU ISLAND
Eastern Hognose Snake at Manitou Island
There are no bears or raccoons on North Manitou Island, although the chipmunks are quite aggressive. The best practice is to hang your food and any scented items like toothpaste or Chapstick to avoid getting your geared chewed by critters.
There are also deer, coyotes and a ton of snakes. We saw 7 snakes during our 3 days on the island. Most of the snakes were harmless garter snakes; we did see an Eastern hognose though. If you are not a fan of snakes, then this island is not for you.
Many migrating birds can be found on the island so keep your eyes open for bald eagles and nesting piping plovers, but avoid the protected nesting areas when exploring.
NO Dogs allowed on the island
TICKS/ MOSQUITOES
Yes, there are mosquitoes, this is camping. Mosquitoes can be intense, depending on the wind. We didn’t have any major issues. I highly recommend bringing a tick remover and spraying all gear with Permethrin to repel ticks.
Black Flies can sometimes be bad in Mid-June through early August, but it ranges each year. These pesky flies are known to swarm around your legs and bite. Use insect repellent products, such as DEET or citronella oil to deter black flies.
PLANTS
Some of the flora to keep your eyes open for is the white three petaled flowering Trillium and purple Heptica.
While you’re visiting the island it is advised to proactively inspect your gear and wipe your boots on mats located on the dock to make sure no invasive non-native plants are attached to your boots. In past years hikers have accidentally brought seeds like Garlic Mustard over, which can wreck havoc on the island’s ecology.
DO’S AND DON’T
Do explore off trail and bushwhack. Many of the historical sites, buildings and secluded beach spots are off the main trails.
Do not swim in the inland lake, unless you want more than memories to take home. Swimmer’s itch is commonly found at Lake Manitou, so stick to swimming at the beautiful Lake Michigan shorelines.
Do have a campfire, but only at designated campfire rings in the village near the dock. There are no other campfires allowed, so plan accordingly for your food with a jet boil/ stove. Rangers are known to ticket.
WHAT TO PACK FOR NORTH MANITOU ISLAND
Plan for self sufficient camping.
In other words; be ready to rough it. There are no air conditioned buildings, showers, or bathrooms. (This isn’t Mackinac Island) Besides two pit toilets and one water spigot at the main campground, there are no amenities.
Bring a spade to utilize in the woods, if you plan to camp around the island this is your only option.
Bring a water filtration system or tablets to get clean water, since the only spigots are at the campground by the dock.
Here are the essential items needed that we recommend bringing during your stay on the island. I highly recommend trying out all your gear and clothing prior to a long backpacking trip. Here are my favorite hiking clothes and backpacks for women, if you need to get some budget friendly essentials.
GEAR LIST
Tent
Ground Tarp
Jet boil and fuel
Sleeping bag
Water filtration system
Water bottle
Shovel for digging cat holes
Tick remover
Food
Kitchen Supplies
Hiking boots or shoes
Socks
Toe sock liners
Gaiters ( optional)
Emergency supplies
Small sewing/repair kit
As you leave Manitou Island, I know you’ll be craving something besides freeze dried food and gorp, so do yourself a favor and stop to grab a Village Cheese Shanty sandwich. You’ll thank me later!
Rock Hunting on North Manitou Island on our 8th Trip
North Manitou Island is one of the most beautiful places to explore in Michigan. I hope you add it to your travel bucket list. I’m curious if you’ve ever visited the islands which is your favorite, North or South? If you’re interested in more outdoor adventures, follow Discovering Anew! Make sure to save and pin this detailed guide for North Manitou Island.
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